Driving north from Bozeman to Choteau, the easternmost stretches of Montana’s Rockies casually release from their bouldered inclines and winding passes into a gentler landscape. From Helena onward for 100 miles, vast blankets of cropland and pastures softly billow and ease into the coulees and creeks leisurely shaping the north country. The journey is a surrender to subtler views, a submission to not getting anywhere anytime soon. Choteau itself is bound in all directions by this same expanse. But just miles east of town, amid swathes of predominantly conventionally farmed land, sits a small acreage revered and maintained a bit differently by its owners.